EXTERIOR STAIN TIPS

APPLICATION TIPS

• Pressure-treated wood, along with other wood types, can be treated   immediately with your choice of stains, toners or clears.
• Wood must be completely dry prior to staining: for damp wood, select maximum sealants or stains may be used.
• When using more than one container of the same color, intermix all cans to ensure color uniformity.
• To help avoid lap marks, apply to only a few boards at a time keeping a wet edge. Brush out any puddles to avoid shiny areas.
• If applying by sprayer, back brush to provide maximum stain penetration and even color uniformity.

TESTS FOR SUCCESS

• If you're not sure it's time to re-apply a waterproofing product, pour a small cup of water on a few horizontal surfaces of your deck. If water is absorbed in less than 10 minutes, or if the surfaces turn a dark color, then it's time for re-application.
• Wood types vary in color and texture and will absorb stain differently. Stain absorbency will also vary due to temperature and humidity. Do a color test on a small hidden area to see exactly how it looks and better gauge how your specific wood absorbs color.

TIPS

• Think of your backyard furniture and the architectural details of your home when choosing color for all your exterior wood needs. Choose from the wide selection
• of our semi-transparent and solid colors to complement your home's
• existing features.
• If you are not sure it's time to re-apply a waterproofing product, pour a small cup of water on a few horizontal surfaces of our deck. If water is absorbed in less than 10 minutes, or if the surface turns a dark color, then it's time for re-application.
• Wood types vary in color and texture and will absorb stain differently. Stain absorbency will also vary due to temperature and humidity. Do a color test on a small hidden area to see exactly how it looks and better gauge how your specific wood absorbs color.
• Clears can be applied to bare wood or wood previously treated with a clear finish
• Wood Toners can be applied to bare wood or wood previously treated with a clear or wood toner
• Semi-transparent stain can be applied to bare wood or wood previously treated with a clear, wood toner, or semi-transparent stain
• Solid Color Stain can be applied to bare wood or previously stained wood
• Wood should be thoroughly clean and dry before applying and finish. For best results use our Deck Cleaner for all exterior wood and Mildew Check® for siding and fences
• Cover all surrounding areas, such as plants, shrubs and bushes, with a tarp or drop cloth
• Apply one thin coat. For best results, use a natural bristle brush, roller, stain pad or spray equipment. Back brush for a more even finish. For:
  1. 100% acrylic latex (Solid Color stain), use a polyester brush
  2. Alkyd oil (Solid Color stain), use a natural bristle brush
  3. 100% Acrylic Latex (Solid Color stain), apply two coats
  4. Alkyd Oil (Solid Color stain), apply one coat
• Allow 24-48 hours drying time for light foot traffic or furniture placement.
• Clean all tools with soap and water or 100% acrylic latex stains or mineral spirits for alkyd oil stains.

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS -- EXTERIOR STAIN

Q: I have a brand-new deck that was constructed with pressure-treated wood. I have heard that I should wait 60-90 days or even a year before staining. Is this true?

A: No. While some manufacturer's products require wood to be exposed for six months to a year so that the wood is dry and the grain is open for optimum penetration, products can be applied immediately. It is our experience that after six months of exposure, the wood has started to crack, split, warp,cup, and turn gray; permanent damage has already occurred. Therefore, we recommend protecting Pressure-Treated Wood (PTW) as soon as possible, preventing this type of damage from occurring and thus extending the life of the deck. It should be noted that more and more PTW being received today is very “green” and completely saturated with water. For saturated wood, the recommendation is to allow it to dry for a week or so before coating, but still coat as soon as possible. The Forest Technology Laboratories have proven that wood exposed and left uncoated for two or more weeks will have coating failures significantly sooner than wood coated before exposure to the elements.

Q: Can solid color deck stain be recoated with the same stain after one year without the use of a primer?

A: Yes, provided that proper surface preparation was done when the initial coating was applied. Re-coat is possible after one year if the film is still in sound condition with no dirt, mildew, flaking, etc. If the coating is not in sound condition, then a primer is recommended. Regardless, you should clean the surface prior to coating.

Q: Do you have to back brush deck stains when you spray? And if you don't, what happens?

A: Yes. Back brushing gives a more uniform coverage and appearance. Back brushing also improves wetting of the substrate, which promotes better penetration into the wood to improve overall durability.

Q: Is water beading a true sign of water repellency and durability?

A: Water beading and persistency of water beading is not an indicator of water repellency or the long-term durability of a coating. Our stains continue to protect the substrate long after the water beading stops. The guideline for restaining is the same as those used to determine when to repaint: color fade, cracking and peeling, excessive wear on decks, erosion, overall appearance, etc.

Q: If you have mildew on your deck, should you use Mildew Check® and then Deck Cleaner?

A: No. Deck Cleaner is designed to remove embedded dirt and mildew stains and it is not necessary to pretreat with Mildew Check®. in addition, Mildew Check® is designed for vertical surfaces only.

Q: Is it necessary to cover exterior stain with polyurethane or something like that?

A: All our exterior stains are “stand alone” finishes and do not require another topcoat for additional protection.

Q: I recently used a fairly well-known “waterseal” on my deck. Although the water “beads up,” I notice that the deck is turning gray and is splintering. What's wrong?

A: “Water beading” simply indicates the presence of a water-repellent additive in your product. Unfortunately, it takes more than surface water repellency to protect your deck from the elements. To really do the job, you'll need to use a product that penetrates the wood cells and encapsulates the wood fibers with a protective resin. Choose a product that will provide your deck with deep-penetrating protection from the damaging effects of the sun's ultraviolet rays, as well as from rain and snow. Also, look for products that provide mildew resistance.

Q: Is solid latex stain as effective as solid oil stain on new wood?

A: Yes. Both products are effective on new wood and the best one is the one the customer prefers. However, solid color oil stains can only be used on vertical surfaces, not decks.

Q: Why can't I use a Solid Color Oil Stain on my deck?

A: Solid Color Oil Stain can only be used on vertical surfaces because the pigment is unable to penetrate into the surface, which does not allow it to be walked on. The product will end up coming off on the bottoms of shoes or showing marks if furniture is dragged across the surface. This surface pigment, however, is what makes vertical surfaces look so attractive.

Q: Does pressure-treated lumber need waterproofing?

A: Yes. Pressure-treated wood is pretreated with chemicals and is effective against wood destroying organisms, but it has little effect on damage caused by moisture. Wood is a naturally porous material. As wood dries, it shrinks. When wood absorbs water, it swells. These cycles cause wood to crack, warp and split—this is typically what is meant by “water damage.” Water repellents or sealers slow down the rate at which moisture is absorbed and released, reducing stresses within the wood.

Q: After pressure washing, how long should the wood be allowed to dry before staining?

A: After power washing, wait at least 48 hours before staining.

Q: Do I need to coat the ends of the boards on my deck?

A: Yes. For maximum protection, you should seal all of the board surfaces. The end of a board provides a good entry point for water, which can eventually cause the wood to rot.

Q: Why do stain labels warn against spontaneous combustion?

A: The oxidation cure mechanism of alkyd and linseed oil resins is a chemical reaction that releases heat. Although this does not present any danger on wood, the heat produced is sufficient to cause rags or steel wool wetted with stain to ignite. Proper care should always be taken to dispose of rags and steel wool used during a staining project. Follow the instructions on the label for proper disposal procedures. Spontaneous combustion will not occur with latex stains since they cure by a different mechanism.

Q: I just stained my deck and there are shiny spots all over. What happened?

A: A Shiny spot, or “flashing”, is a condition where the stain or clear is unable to penetrate into the wood and instead sits on the surface and looks shiny. Too much product applied and product applied over a sealed, wet or moisture-retaining surface are the primary reasons. Exposure to sunlight will eventually “dull” those shiny spots to an overall even sheen. Another option is to apply some mineral spirits or a pine-oil containing product, let stand about 10 minutes and use a stiff bristle brush to remove the excess product.

Q: I just applied Sun-Proof Stain to my deck and I accidentally sprayed some onto my vinyl siding. How can I get it off?

A: We have found that linseed-oil based product can be removed from vinyl siding by using Pine-Sol or Simple Green (pine-oil containing cleaners). Leave on for approximately 10 minutes and scrub with a stiff bristle brush. If the product has dried for several days, it may not come off.

Q: The oil stain label states to only apply one thin coat. Isn't more better?

A: It is very important to use only the recommended amounts that are listed on our products ' labels. Too much product will distort the color and could also leadto drying problems.

Q: Do I need to clean my deck before staining it?

A: Cleaning is an all-important first step. If dirt, mildew or other contaminants are on the surface, it will affect adhesion of any product that is applied. For horizontal surfaces, use our Deck Cleaner or Wood Brightener. For vertical wood siding, use any of the previous cleaners or Mildew Check®.

Q: I just cleaned my deck and it has a white fuzzy appearance to it. What is going on?

A: Deck Cleaner is a very aggressive cleaner. It has to be this way in order for it to be able to clean without scrubbing. Deck Cleaner contains sodium hypochlorite (bleach) and may lighten the wood. This is also part of its cleaning process. If the wood is weathered, degraded wood fibers may give it a fuzzy appearance. Remove by high pressure garden hose or light sanding.

Q: I don't want my siding to turn gray, but I also want it to look natural. Should I use a clear?

A: Remember, the more pigment, the more protection against graying. That is why a paint lasts longer than a solid color stain, a solid color stain will last longer than a semi-transparent, and wood toners will last longer than clear finishes. The natural color of the wood will not be maintained for long with clears, which usually require re-coating every year or two. Wood Toners add a little color and extend the re-do time through wood enhancers that provide the necessary properties to prevent graying and maintain the wood's natural color. Just remember, the best way to prevent graying is to have pigment as part of the product.

Q: My house was painted with Sun-Proof Solid Color Oil Stain. What should I use to re-stain?

A: We do not recommend another oil stain. Applying another coat of oil stain to a surface already saturated with oil will result in a condition called “flashing”. We recommend recoating with a solid color latex stain. These can be applied with a primer over weathered oil stain (as long as it is in good shape). Bare wood areas need to be spot-primed with a high quality primer before staining with Sun-Proof Solid Color Latex Stain.

Q: Why can't I use a roller to apply Solid Color Latex Stain?

A: Using a roller can create pinholes in the stain film that could allow moisture to enter and eventually lead to adhesion problems. Apply the Solid Color Stain with a brush or sprayer.

Q: Isn't it the same if I use bleach and water to remove mildew?

A: Bleach and water can kill some existing mildew; however, Mildew Check® kills all existing mildew and leaves behind a protective film to inhibit new mildew growth. It is much more effective than bleach and water.

Q: It's been three days since I stained my deck and it still is not dry. Why?

A: If a stain is unable to adequately penetrate the surface, it will remain soft and spongy for a while. Too much product applied and product applied over a sealed, wet or moisture-retaining surface are common causes. Allow some additional time for the sun and air to contribute to the drying process. Another option is to apply some mineral spirits or a pine-oil containing product, let stand about 10 minutes and use a stiff bristle brush to remove the excess product.

Q: We painted our house a year ago and used a Sun-Proof stain, and it states on the label that it has mildew resistance and now we have mildew. We cleaned the house with bleach and water. What happened?

A: The mildew resistance in Sun-Proof stains can inhibit new mildew from growing but cannot prevent it. Also, bleach and water cannot kill all mildew and does not leave a protective film behind like Mildew Check®. However, even using Mildew Check® and the Sun-Proof mildew resistant paints and stains does not mean that the surface will never have mildew growing on it. Mildew is airborne and can grow on any surface if the conditions are right. Using Mildew Check® first does protect the surface longer than using only bleach and water.

Q: Can you put latex over oil?

A: Yes. Latex stains or paints can be used to recoat over an oil. It is very important, however, to do excellent surface preparation, which includes scuff sanding any glossy areas, removing any loose or flaking paint and cleaning all the dirt and contaminants off the surface. If the existing oil stain or paint is tightly adhering and in good condition, the latex can be applied without a primer. If bare surfaces are showing, a primer is required.25

INTERIOR STAIN TIPS

TIPS FOR A BEAUTIFUL FINISH

STEP ONE: WOOD PREPARATION

• Clean bare wood with mineral spirits to remove any surface residue.
• Let wood dry, then sand in the direction of the grain with medium sandpaper (#100, #150).
• Proceed to sand with fine #220 sandpaper.
• After the final sanding, wipe entire surface with lint-free cloth or tack cloth.
• For soft wood, apply wood conditioner to ensure uniform penetration.

STEP TWO : STAINING

• Apply stain with a china bristle brush, foam, pad or lint-free cloth.
• Stain in the direction of the wood grain.
• Allow stain to penetrate wood.
• Wipe across the grain with a clean lint-free rag to remove excess stain.
• Allow 5 hours to dry.

STEP THREE: PROTECT WITH A CLEAR DURABLE FINISH

• Apply with a brush, foam pad or lint-free cloth.
• Apply in the direction of the wood grain.
• For added gloss and protection, apply additional coats.
• Lightly sand and wipe surface with a tack cloth between coats.
• 5 hours dry time (oil based)
• 2 hours dry time (water based)
• 72 hours dry time on floors

TIPS FROM MASTER WOODFINISHERS

Preparation is Essential to a Successful Project

• Remove waxes, polishes and paints from old wood with a quality Furniture   
• Refinisher.
• Repair any damaged surfaces with wood filler. Sand and wipe down.
• Clean bare wood with mineral spirits to remove any surface residue.
• Let wood dry. Sand in direction of the grain with medium (#100 or #150) sandpaper. Proceed to sand with fine (#200) sandpaper. Then wipe down with a tack cloth or lint-free cloth.

Understanding Wood Types

• Spruce, pine and fir are considered soft woods. They will typically absorb stain more readily and may benefit from a pre-treatment wood conditioner.
• Birch, oak, ash and walnut are considered hard woods and accept stain well.

A Color Test -- One More Step to Ensuring Success

After determining the desired color, do a small color test on a hidden area or scrap piece to gauge color acceptance. It's the best way to know how quickly your specific wood will take color.

Sanding Sealers versus Wood Conditioners

Sanding Sealers: Prepare wood for a smooth even finish.

• Designed to create an ultra smooth surface by filling and sealing all types of bare or stained wood.
• For use prior to the application of a polyurethane topcoat.

Wood Conditioners: Pre-treatment for soft woods.

• Designed to help soft woods absorb stain more evenly, providing maximum color control. Must be applied prior to staining.